{"id":109,"date":"2019-10-31T21:08:52","date_gmt":"2019-10-31T21:08:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/smallplaces.org\/blog\/109\/"},"modified":"2019-10-31T21:08:52","modified_gmt":"2019-10-31T21:08:52","slug":"inequality-in-fine-dining","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/smallplaces.org\/es\/blog\/109\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00bfPor qu\u00e9 la cocina europea deber\u00eda considerarse buena comida?"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

El chef C\u00e9sar Cano, finalista de Masterchef y propietario de Taque_Son PopUp Dining, dijo algo que realmente me abri\u00f3 los ojos sobre la desigualdad que reina en la buena mesa. En su Entrevista de VoyageHouston<\/a>, \u00e9l pide, <\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\n
>
\n “<\/span>\u00bfPor qu\u00e9 la cocina europea deber\u00eda considerarse buena comida? \u00bfPor qu\u00e9 la gente celebra sus cumplea\u00f1os y aniversarios en restaurantes italianos, franceses y americanos? \u00bfPor qu\u00e9 la gente no puede disfrazarse para comer tacos? Las t\u00e9cnicas para hacer una tortilla son igual de complejas para hacer pan. La cantidad de ingredientes y t\u00e9cnicas necesarias para hacer un mole rivalizan con la de cualquier salsa francesa.<\/p>\n

Con mis tacos, tomo una posici\u00f3n. Una postura de que todos somos iguales.”<\/span>\n <\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/figure>\n

\n

Entonces le pedimos que hablara m\u00e1s sobre el tema de la disparidad en la alta cocina, y esto es lo que dijo:<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\"Tinga.jpg\"<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/figure><\/div>\n

\n

En esa entrevista que mencionaste, me preguntaron d\u00f3nde clasificaba la cocina mexicana. La pregunta me impuls\u00f3 a compartir mis pensamientos sobre c\u00f3mo se ven a las minor\u00edas en este pa\u00eds, pero m\u00e1s importante a\u00fan, c\u00f3mo las minor\u00edas se ven a s\u00ed mismas y a su cultura. No nos damos el cr\u00e9dito que merecemos y estoy tratando de cambiar eso.<\/p>\n

\n

Esto se remonta a siglos atr\u00e1s. Tanto Am\u00e9rica del Sur como del Norte fueron conquistadas y colonizadas por pa\u00edses europeos. Las sociedades conquistadoras y colonizadoras cre\u00edan err\u00f3neamente que estaban m\u00e1s avanzadas en la cadena evolutiva que las comunidades ind\u00edgenas que habitaban este lado del mundo. No negar\u00e9 que los europeos aportaron muchas ideas y tecnolog\u00edas que, en \u00faltima instancia, beneficiaron a toda la humanidad. Lo que objeto es que todos los pensamientos, creencias y pr\u00e1cticas ind\u00edgenas hayan sido descartados. Los nativos americanos fueron erradicados o expulsados de sus pa\u00edses de origen. No hubo absorci\u00f3n ni fusi\u00f3n de ambas culturas. Desde entonces, hemos vivido bajo un velo europeo que eleva la est\u00e9tica europea, como la arquitectura, el lenguaje, el arte y la comida, a un nivel superior al de sus contrapartes ind\u00edgenas.<\/p>\n

\n

Sin saberlo, encontr\u00e9 este sesgo cuando emigr\u00e9 por primera vez a Houston. Tuve que aprender a hablar ingl\u00e9s y, por supuesto, durante los primeros a\u00f1os tuve un acento pronunciado. Mi acento era una fuente de verg\u00fcenza para m\u00ed, pero luego, a medida que crec\u00ed, \u00a1empec\u00e9 a ver el doble rasero!<\/p>\n

\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\"Salad.jpg\"<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/figure><\/div>\n

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\u00a1Los acentos franc\u00e9s, brit\u00e1nico, italiano e incluso espa\u00f1ol se consideran rom\u00e1nticos y ex\u00f3ticos! \u00a1Cuando era ni\u00f1o, no pod\u00eda entender esos acentos mejor de lo que la gente pod\u00eda entenderme a m\u00ed! Las pel\u00edculas, los dibujos animados y los programas de televisi\u00f3n sirven para reforzar estos estereotipos. Los personajes con acento asi\u00e1tico o latino se retratan como menos que aquellos que hablan \u201cnormalmente\u201d.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Esta mentalidad de desigualdad impregna muchos aspectos de nuestra sociedad, incluso la alimentaci\u00f3n. La comida est\u00e1 ligada a las celebraciones: cumplea\u00f1os, aniversarios, ascensos, nuevas casas, etc. \u00a1Para celebrar, comemos! \u00bfQu\u00e9 tipo de lugares son m\u00e1s buscados para estas celebraciones? Restaurantes que se consideran \u201celegantes\u201d (l\u00e9ase caros). La gente quiere el blanco (no me hag\u00e1is hablar de que el color blanco es un s\u00edmbolo de pureza y excelencia en casi toda la literatura y los tonos oscuros como el negro y el marr\u00f3n son s\u00edmbolos de lo contrario jajaja) el mantel, el maitre, los camareros en ropa elegante, etc. etc. etc. Es decir, un servicio de alimentaci\u00f3n basado en la tradici\u00f3n francesa. \u00a1A m\u00ed tambi\u00e9n me encanta todo eso! Me encanta la comida francesa, pero estoy tratando de cambiar la percepci\u00f3n de la gente sobre qu\u00e9 alimentos merecen un precio particular y qu\u00e9 alimentos se consideran baratos. No desacredito ninguna cocina, pero s\u00ed quiero que mi cocina (y la de otros grupos minoritarios) sea vista como merecedora de elogios y buscada para disfrutarla durante los acontecimientos monumentales de la vida.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\u00bfPor qu\u00e9 se vende un canutillo por $3 pero un churro por $1? \u00a1Son literalmente la misma masa! \u00a1Uno est\u00e1 horneado y el otro frito! \u00bfPor qu\u00e9 el mantequilla blanca<\/em> evocar im\u00e1genes de buena comida, pero salsa<\/em> \u00bfTe deja caer en una esquina? Ambas salsas son igualmente complejas y requieren pr\u00e1ctica para perfeccionarse.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\n
>
\n “<\/span>La cuesti\u00f3n es que todos hemos aceptado que un alimento es mejor que otro. Nosotros, las minor\u00edas, hemos ca\u00eddo en la trampa de no apreciar ni valorar nuestra propia cultura frente a la cultura dominante. Con demasiada frecuencia he escuchado a amigos y familiares decir: "\u00bfPor qu\u00e9 voy a pagar $10 por gorditas cuando puedo comerlas en casa?" o "\u00bfPor qu\u00e9 voy a pagar $8 por un taco en Hugo's cuando puedo conseguir tacos a un d\u00f3lar en Edgebrook?" Es porque si no nos consideramos valiosos a nosotros mismos y a nuestra cultura, nadie lo har\u00e1. El cambio tiene que empezar por nosotros. Quiero que mi comida inculque un sentido de orgullo y propiedad entre mis comensales, independientemente de su origen cultural.”<\/span>\n <\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/figure>\n
\n

No comenc\u00e9 a cocinar platos mexicanos hasta hace 3 a\u00f1os. Estaba aprendiendo las t\u00e9cnicas y los sabores europeos porque los amo, pero cocinar platos mexicanos me ha parecido m\u00e1s significativo porque est\u00e1n arraigados en la memoria, en la familia, en siglos de tradici\u00f3n.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\"Fam.jpg\"<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/figure><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00bfPor qu\u00e9 la cocina europea deber\u00eda considerarse buena comida? \u00bfPor qu\u00e9 la gente celebra sus cumplea\u00f1os y aniversarios en restaurantes italianos, franceses y americanos? \u00bfPor qu\u00e9 la gente no puede disfrazarse para comer tacos? Las t\u00e9cnicas para hacer una tortilla son igual de complejas para hacer pan. La cantidad de ingredientes y t\u00e9cnicas necesarias para hacer un mole rivalizan con la de cualquier salsa francesa.<\/p>\n

Con mis tacos, tomo una posici\u00f3n. Una postura de que todos somos iguales.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":804,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[18],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-109","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news"],"yoast_head":"\nWhy should European cuisines be considered fine dining? - Small Places<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/smallplaces.org\/es\/blog\/109\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"es_MX\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Why should European cuisines be considered fine dining? - Small Places\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Why should European cuisines be considered fine dining? 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